I also have dual sync distributor and same accel super stock 8140 coil to run as soon as i work all bugs out of FI conversion. My setup requires too much pedal pressure both starting and running. That should be adequate to get the engine running. From there it is a slam dunk. Direct to the battery means to the battery. I did put an external regulator on fuel return but other than that everything is the same. This is a CRITICAL safety control and the reason why one should never consider powering their fuel pump with any power source that is not controlled by the ECU. Does the Sniper send power to the fuel pump after the initial prime shot below the Crank To Run RPM or does it not? Tune the cranking fuel in the following locations: Using the Handheld Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Fuel > Cranking Fuel, Using the Software Fuel ICF (Fuel Injector Icon) > Startup Enrichment > Cranking Fuel. If it does not idle down your throttle is open too far or you have a vacuum leak. Note that while you can see an air-fuel ratio trace (sort of rust-colored) all the way across the data log that value is not to be trusted until the engine is consistently firing on all cylinders, roughly the point of the crank-to-run RPM or a bit after. Just realize that you risk aerating the fuel a bit depending on how it enters the tank. Do you have fuel pressure? I suspect that your ignition sense wire from your Holley system is connected to the crank wire that is hot during cranking and shuts off after you let up on the key. Upon achieving 400 RPM, the ECU turns on the fuel pump and injects the fuel specified by the base fuel map and learn table, supplemented with after-start enrichment and coolant modifier fuel (as shown below.). Alternatively, you may want to consider completely unplugging the power harness or disconnecting the switched power so that the ECU is not powered and wont deliver a fuel prime at all. Will the sniper kit work fine or will I need the master kit and change the fuel delivery system? Then I will provide an image of how this variable looks in the software. (Plus, it's easy to do---see this article.) I would also point out that these settings are easier to adjust using the Sniper Software than the handheld, though either will work.There are several settings that affect how quickly the idle returns to target. Feed pressure should be knocking on 58 PSI and the return should ideally be zero, if the feed pressure is not correct, or if the return line pressure is greater than 4-5 PSI find and correct the restriction before proceeding. is setting themselves up for unnecessary frustration. Joe. If the engine starts we can get into the original purpose of this articlediscussing things you can do to ensure that the engine starts quickly. Set the X Axis to RPM5. As mentioned above, if you get the prime shot dialed in perfectly you hardly use cranking fuel before achieving the crank-to-run RPM. All seemed well with the setup and going through the handheld. Try cranking immediately upon key-on--before it has a chance to prime. Not perfect but not bad. Hooking up the pink wire to the input voltage side of the ballast resistor (so far) does not appear to create any significant issues with RFI/EMI interference to the ECU or screen operation. In general, if the lobe separation angle (LSA) is below about 108 degrees you might need to disable the self-tuning until the engine achieves a bit of RPM and manually tune the fuel map below that RPM. This is the crank-to-run RPM. How do you set this up?Thanks! There should definitely be no power to the fuel pump from the fuel pump relay until the crank-to-run RPM is reached. But I suspect that's not the case here. Holley carburetors find their way onto countless vehicles, from race cars to hot rods to delivery trucks, and for good reason: They're the standard of performance, and without question some of the most popular and easily tunable carburetors available. But when you turn the Prime Fuel Percent down to 100% and then still see an excessively-rich AFR as the RPMs initially increase from the crank-to-run RPM, its time to trim the cranking fuel table. Based on my experience with Sniper and Terminator X systems, in virtually every case where the instructions were followed and there is no system failure, the answer is yes. Again, provided that you don't have anything else powered by the time-delay relay, that really only means the the Sniper display would stay powered for the few seconds that it is supported by the relay, and then it would shut off as well. Maybe I am missing something here. Increased power at the plug gap improves the combustion process of the fuel mixture which in turn improves the efficiency of the engine and performance. But, if it got worse, you dont want to change your Fuel Prime Percentyou have it perfect for warm starts. i can hear the pump, but nothing is coming through the fuel line. Am I following this correctly or not? Bolt-On EFI for your To be 100% honest I was having an issue prior and flooded it. Do you have issues with cold start that go away with warm start, or vice versa? Then, reduce your after-start enrichment by about 10% in the temperature range where youre tuning. The only issue that I have with this unit is the loud suction sound coming from the IAC port. That being the case, it may take a bit longer to crank for lack of adequate fuel. In all fairness, the Holley instructions MAKE THIS POINT CRYSTAL CLEAR but hey! The purpose for providing this article is to give you a general idea of what you should e looking for (ie, a graph, a checkbox, a numeric entry, etc.) It needs the tip pointed down at least 10 degrees from horizontal and at least 15 degrees from vertical I prefer about a 45 degree angle from horizontal. Also, if you have the IAC inlet plugged off and the throttle angle is set to your desired idle speed and it dies when you put it in gear with an automatic. Therefor, -40 + 100 degrees = 60 degrees. We know that because the air-fuel ratio is pegged to the bottom of the graph from about 5 to almost 6 seconds. It will come back up when the engine is running.If you have fuel pressure then you've got to dig deeper. Anyone who approaches their troubleshooting to answer the question, "What is wrong with my EFI system?" This circuit shuts off during crank and will obviously cause problems. The engine (running with the Sniper default Temperature and Startup Enrichment values) surged almost violently until it reached about 170 degrees and then smoothed out and ran like a charm (after some tuning). Like many others, EFI System Pro allowed me to dial a new Holley Sniper. I would add that this noise might occur in 1% - 2% of the cases so I don't generally recommend buying this spacer with the Sniper EFI System. Question is, do I just plug what was the return at the throttle body? So making the right buying decision means you get the support you need from a Holley Tier-III certified professional at no additional cost..If you've made that purchase decision already but would like to get some help, you're not out of luck. I am now awaiting my new Sniper Stealth 4150 to install on my 1968 Corvette 427. Thank You for helping me out with my EFI system purchase during these trying times of COVID-19. May 23, 2022. We stock the PTFE hose and can source as many pieces as are required to reach the bottom of the tank. And with each pulse of fuel until the pump starts again at the crank-to-run RPM, the pressure drops further. The challenge will be what you call the "right fuel system". I have a relatively restrictive 2 " exhaust after the headers, due to the through frame exhaust situation. Thanks. The Sniper ships with an OEM grade Bosch O2 sensor. I'm worried that the engine will stall at idle. If you free dumped it in the top, it will aerate and foam up the fuel. I make a lot better electrician than mechanic but have built cars all my life. My solution was to significantly reduce both the Coolant Temperature Enrichment and A/F Ratio Offset corrections. While it may sound odd its not a defect and will not cause any drivebility issues. And that from a not-so-shabby original 1.13-second start time. Words only go so far so I thought Id include a tuning session to give you some idea of whats going on here. Your engine will be dependent on cranking fuel entirely. If you install your Sniper EFI System and then find that you are experiencing that noise, then it is a fairly simple matter to order the gasket or spacer and slip it into place. 6-8" would require me to install in my headers. Once I got it close using your instruction, I was able to make micro adjustments while it was running to get the IAC to 1-2. If you don't show any fuel pressure then fix that. Happy New Year! Extending wires with too small of a wire gauge will also result in the same damage. The kit I bought: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sne-550-511 Also for timing control, this distributor: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sne-565-302 You just have to go one direction and see if things improve or not. First, don't get too worked up about the flashing yellow and red values. As a result, this same engine may not start well cold. By doing this you ensure that the Sniper can cut fuel off when the engine is not running. In most cases you just hit the key at that point and it's happy dance time. Runs good, but dies while I drive down the road. Hey Chris, I installed a Holley sniper on a small block 400, first start was great! to the same number as 4.) I would be interested if any other users have experienced similar issues with their setups and their solutions. Ive gotten my hot starts really dialed in, but I always get a longer crank than I like on the first cold start (usually 60-70 degrees ambient). Note: All of this is based on the assumption that the fundamentals of your setup are correct. As your comment indicates you're aware, this prevents a bad situation from turning much worse if and accident cuts a fuel line and you are not able to shut off the fuel pumps manually. That delay is called After-Start Holdoff. It's almost impossible to hurt an engine with no load on it. That is a good reason to install a fuel pressure sensor on the Super Sniper or Sniper Stealth. I hope to do more articles similar to this so stay tuned! and go to restart warm, it catches starts for a flick of a second, drops to a stall, or sometimes will catch its self and start. This, in turn, will power the Sniper. Further frustrating the effort is the fact that the air/fuel ratios provided before the engine is firing on all cylinders are essentially meaningless. I figured it would be minimal. But you don't mention fuel pressure at the inlet. Never use the yellow wire if you're running a CD box like an MSD 6.The 1/4-inch line should not be used as a return. My car is going on the dyno for final tuning next week. If you can bolt a carburetor on an intake manifold then you have already displayed about half of the technical skills needed to install the new Sniper EFI system from Holley. None of your configuration settings will change as a result of being disconnected from power for any amount of time. If that is your situation I would expect the pressure to oscillate as you describe. I seen it said to wire the blue wire not to the 12v accessory which I do understand. All of these values are configurable. Beyond that you're going to have to get Holley tech support involved. The engine starts and idles great. We do see a massive rich dip in the AFR as soon as engine starts. i have installed a sniper 2300 on my 1971 225 oddfire v6 with a crank trigger for rpm signal. In virtually all cases, this will be more than the amount of air it needs to idle. Capability Range: Professional I never changed any wiring just removed the sniper and installed the xflow. :-) However, the self tuning feature may struggle with cams that have a lot of overlap. You have that where you want it. (You DO have a fuel pressure gauge installed, right? Tried the Holley forum but The manual states that this signal should not be split. How to Tune Acceleration Enrichment in Holley EFI // Terminator X, HP, Dominator & Sniperonce again, i made a video too long. The problem isn't the 55 PSI. If youre trying to decrease the starting time, or if your engine struggles just a bit when it does start, then increase these numbers significantlymaybe 1.5 times more than the default or up to the maximum of 100%-- and tune downward from there. That helped. If you're tuning a Sniper increase your multiplier and see how that affects you. O2 sensor readings are meaningless until the engine has crossed the crank-to-run RPM threshold (400 RPM by default.) But with patience you will get there. O2 Sensor Mounting: The O2 needs to be mounted 6-8 after the merge in the header collector.Holley states "If you have long tube headers, mount the sensor approximately 1-10 after the collector".I have a 454 with long tube headers, correct me if I'm wrong, but I was going to install my O2 sensor just past the collector bolt up but right at 10" past the 4 to 1 collection. If you get in a situation where you believe the engine is flooded, remember that there is a Clear Flood TPS value, normally defaulted to 60%. Quick Start Tuning. :-D. Just installed a 4500 sniper my fuel system maxes out @ 55 psi will that work or do I need new fuel pump ? It is going on a 1966 coronet with 1964 413 wedge. Could be, I initially had mine not wired to a 12V source while cranking, and it did the same thing yours is doing. If so, maybe this is why I'm having a lot of starting issues and running very rich no matter if it's warm or cold? Not some generic piece as some have speculated. Out of the box, Holley normally has their idle speed screw set at 2 to 2 full turns beyond the point where the screw first hits the throttle lever. That added fuel is called after-start enrichment. Hi, I have a 1987 Firebird with 305 engine and Quadrajet carb. Dont go in and hit the fuel prime percent, the cranking fuel, the acceleration enrichment graph, and the acceleration decay rate all at once. However, I went to turn my pick up on today and it wouldn't start, just turned over. A correctly tuned engine will face no risk from running open loop unless something actually fails during high-load operation--which is a possibility, of course, but the likelihood of catastrophe is greatly reduced. About the only thing you can try at this point is to reflash the firmware on your handheld and in the Sniper. At least not right away (after time-delay set in relay). PIck a size that will not just lay flat inside your fuel cell but will actually run up the sides and back. (Ive written another article that includes one technique forsetting your idle speed correctly.) I can't find a good spot in the fuse block, I don't recommend this. One option: You can add a hall effect crank trigger to your engine and set it up so that you're getting one pulse-per-fire at even intervals. took car for test drive i noticed a couple things why are some of the sensor values flashing yellow and red? 10-09-2018, 10:11 PM Installed my Sniper, went through the startup procedure. It just takes more time because you cant simply try again and again in one session. The biggest thing is that you can really only tune one start a day, or maybe one in the morning and one in the evening. Many of these are completely normal with EFI. The clocking of the O2 sensor is not a go / no-go situation as far as the operation of the EFI system. My question is if both of my fuel pumps are wired from relays to my rocker panel where does the blue fuel pump prime wire connect or would you just not use it altogether. Do you get an RPM reading on the handheld while cranking? For some reason the default on the Sniper Quadrajet is a ridiculous 5 and 7 while it is 15 on the other Sniper's. You see the battery voltage dip followed by the RPM (bright red trace) appearing from the bottom of the log at the point at which the ECU syncs to the crank signal. Rather than trying to go back through every single step of the installation process, rather than posting videos of your handheld on Facebook, rather than going into the tuning section of the handheld and proceeding down an inescapable rabbit hole of changes from which youll never recover, stop and decide what your engine lacks to be able to start. Let me know what works for you! 4.) ), I have the sniper efi system with the holley retro-fit in tank electric fuel pump. How efficient is your engine startup? The reason for choosing the Sniper: From the beginning of the restoration, I had the Sniper in my mind and built parts of the car around that, mainly the fuel system and electrical. I am in the middle of plumbing my new sniper throttle body system. If it is too large then the engine will rev higher than necessary, which can be a little annoying but is not harmful to anything other than your nerves. Is a tremendous volume of fuel sprayed in all barrels? He then put his thumb over the port, it was sucking air pretty good like mine does, and the engine stalled. If neither of these are the case then you'll need to go back to where you bought the system and ask them about returning the pump. Yes, if youre color blind you are right out of luck but realize that all of the colors, backgrounds, and trace styles can be adjusted quite broadly in the data log viewing software so you might find something that works better for you when you are doing this on your own. :-). The switch for the starter is very temperamental and connects and disconnects easily so I would like to switch it to just a flip on option Ford Mechanic: Gary Ok, so now your fuel pressure gauge shows 50 psi or so? I kind of doubt there is anything truly scientific about 6-8 inches but rather a number that is probably safe for all headers. A throttle linkage extender and a progressive linkage kit. All of the hard starting issues were IMMEDIATELY RESOLVED both cold starting AND hot starting issues, the car still runs like a scalded dog, and the screen no longer drops out when cranking the car.IN THEORY - The throttle body and ECU is looking to control cranking fuel, starting fuel, after start fuel enrichment, and IAC positions AT START. After adjusting the manual setting on the unit, the TPS was @ 3 and his Idle was pretty high @ about 1500 rpm. 2-Barrel Sniper EFI 2300 Sniper EFI C10. Do you see an issue with this? But I have never heard of anyone else who has had success doing this. Thanks Chris, keep up the good work. This is obviously an ongoing process. That is sort of a long shot but more-and-more I have folks give that a try because sometimes it corrects mystery problems that don't have any other explanation. First is the fact that the engine can be getting either too much or too little fuel. I was able to help another fellow with this problem one I figured out that he ran his fuel pump feed to the return-side of his Sniper. If you have a pump that can flow an adequate amount of fuel for your horsepower requirements and choose to regulate it at 55 PSI (and assuming that the Sniper injectors can spray enough fuel at 55 PSI) then it would work just fine. In my experience startup fuel tends to be too much. Super helpful and knowledgeable. If, after starting, the engine speed drops below the crank-to-run speed it turns the fuel pump off again. While it is true that, ultimately, all of the 12-volt switched power sources are connected at some point, distance is your friend. Too much and it will simply idle high and can be manually adjusted down. Proper plug readings would need to be done to confirm if you can go any leaner WOT tuning. This page was generated at 05:08 PM. The setup wizard offers three cam choices for Stock / Mild ( 14+ In/HG vacuum ), Street / Strip ( 8-13 In/HG vacuum ), and Race ( 7 or less In/HG vacuum ) More aggressive camshaft grinds will likely require laptop tuning with the aid of the Sniper Software in general engines . 02/23/2023. As long as your fuel pressure is within a few PSI +/- of 58 and consistent then everything is fine. I have a aeromotive stealth 340 fuel tank. #2 I have a return 1/4 pipe coming out of the fuel pump at the fuel tank. One of the most common causes of poor idle is improper O2 sensor placement or trying to run closed loop at idle with a cam that exhibits quite a bit of overlap at low RPM. sniper Installation If you're installing a Sniper EFI system and almost ready to crank it over for the first time, this is the video for you! It connects the Sniper switched power to a very "dirty" power source.
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